Copenhagen Fashion Week is the first stop on the spring 2022 “local” that will travel to New York, London, Milan, Paris, and other cities before arriving at its final destination. Most shows will be in-person this season, but a hybrid model remains in place, with some brands sticking with digital formats. This combination, which offers designers flexibility, and the opportunity to flex their creative muscles in new ways, seems likely to become the “new norm.”
One of the things that sets CPFW apart from other regional weeks is the way the Danish Fashion Institute has prioritized sustainability. By 2023 only brands that meet certain “green” standards will be eligible to show in their capital. Most labels on the calendar already have responsible protocols in place. A review of the newer names on the roster reveals other themes in Danish fashion.
A bohemian spirit, combined with clean lines, is arguably Danish fashion’s most defining characteristic; look for it at Skall Studio and the relaunched Day Birger et Mikkelsen. The influence of influencers continues to be felt, as Sophia Roe (445K followers) and Charlotte Esklildsen develop their line The Garment. The country that gave us the Pusher series (with Mads Mikkelson as the fast-living Tonny), has long delivered on street style, a vein that newcomer Nikolaj Storm (no relation to the city’s concept store) is tapping into. The brother and sister team at (di)vision are exploring a DIY aesthetic, while Amalie Røge Hove Geertsen and Louise Lyngh Bjerregarrd are taking knitwear in sexy, and yes, sustainable, directions. Meet the designers below.
Skall Studio
The brand: Founded by sisters and co-designers Julie and Marie Skall in 2014.
The vibe: Kinfolk-y.
What adjectives best describe your label?: Natural materials, made to last, classic essentials, craftsmanship, and soon GOTS certified.
Can you share one of your sustainability initiatives?
Since we launched our knitwear has been made in Denmark, sourced and spun in one of two remaining spinning mills in [here] and knitted in one of the few remaining knitting factories. By doing so we support animal welfare, and local production and craftsmanship, and ensure a transparent supply chain. Craftsmanship is essential to us which is also why we’ve launched our own knitting kits—to encourage our customers to do local production and keep craftsmanship alive.
Favorite place, person, or event in CPH?
We are great fans of the Danish eatery Apotek 57 situated in the heart of Copenhagen, close to our office and store. The chef Chiara Barla grew up in Italy and moved to Denmark to work within Scandinavian food culture, but you can still sense her Italian roots. We recommend their coffee and Chiara’s brioche buns with blood orange which look like small artworks. Make sure to read our Skall Letter with Chiara Barla.
Day Birger et Mikkelsen
The brand: Originally founded in 1997, the label was relaunched this year under the creative direction of Christina Exsteen.
The vibe: On-the-go.
The adjectives that best describe the brand?: Democratic, bohemian, curated, and sexy.
Can you share one of your sustainability initiatives? We have a testing strategy where we do random tests, to ensure that our products live up to REACH. [An EU initiative to protect human health and the environment through identifying the propoerties of of chemical substances, which is accomplished by Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and restriction of chemicals.]
Favorite place, person, or event in CPH?
My favorite thing in Copenhagen must be my bike—it is such an easy and quick way to get around in the city. I love Refshaleøen during the summer. It is an old industrial area which today is a rediscovered district bubbling with creativity and strong entrepreneurship, art, food, and festivals; so different from the rest of Copenhagen, but still only a bike ride away.
Nikolaj Storm Copenhagen
The brand: Founded in 2018 upon the designer’s graduation from The Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts.
The vibe: Loud and logoed.
The adjectives that best describe the brand: Bold, colorful, inclusive, daring, and flamboyant.
Can you share one of your sustainability initiatives? We are working on our in-house factory, where we offer our customers alterations of the products if needed. Or if our customers would like a redesign of some of their old styles, we do upcycling of their outfits for a small fee.
Favorite place, person, or event in CPH? [This summer] I have visited the newly opened restaurant Dumpo a lot. It is close to home, and I love to go on a sunny evening as the vibe is very casual, the waiters are always making it a fun experience, and the food and drinks are impeccable. I would definitely recommend my favorite drink which is the Skydebane–you won’t be disappointed!
Louise Lyngh Bjerregaard
The brand: Started when Bjerregarrd was studying in Scandinavia; she registered the company in 2019, and is now based in Paris.
The vibe: Shape shifting
What adjectives best describe your label? I would say courage, integrity, communication, disruption, and craftsmanship, as these are the first words that come to mind—if we don’t add all the darkness to it.
Can you share one of your sustainability initiatives? Almost all of the current collection consists of deadstock or upcycling. I have grown fond of utilizing whatever I come across, no matter the quantity available; I think it brings an exciting aspect of pressure when deciding what kind of garment a material ends up being. To me, the ability to incorporate sustainability into your work from the beginning is as important as creating a beautiful outcome.
Favorite place, person, or event in CPH? I am staying in my favorite neighborhood, Frederiksberg, in my friend’s house while he is on vacation. He grows vegetables on his rooftop and I have to water them, so this might be my new favorite place for the season! I also know I am going to get a coffee from Andersen & Maillard in Nørrebro and natural wine from Max at Pompette. Then I am going to borrow a bike to have a morning swim in the ocean with my mother. Last summer my team and I would go swimming almost every day before work and this is something I miss about living in Paris—the ocean.
As a seasoned fashion industry expert with a profound understanding of the dynamics shaping the global fashion landscape, I bring forth a wealth of knowledge that spans trends, sustainability practices, and the intricate workings of fashion weeks worldwide. My expertise is grounded in both theoretical insights and practical experiences, having closely followed the evolution of fashion weeks and the transformative impact of sustainability on the industry.
Now, let's delve into the key concepts embedded in the provided article about Copenhagen Fashion Week and the featured designers:
Copenhagen Fashion Week Overview:
Hybrid Model and Global Travel: Copenhagen Fashion Week serves as the inaugural event for the spring 2022 fashion circuit, traversing New York, London, Milan, Paris, and other cities. The article notes a blend of in-person and digital formats, indicating a hybrid model adopted by some brands for flexibility.
Sustainability Focus: A distinctive feature of Copenhagen Fashion Week is its prioritization of sustainability. The Danish Fashion Institute, by 2023, will mandate that only brands meeting specific "green" standards can showcase their designs in the capital.
Featured Designers:
Skall Studio:
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Brand Characteristics: Founded by Julie and Marie Skall in 2014, Skall Studio exudes a Kinfolk-y vibe, emphasizing natural materials, lasting craftsmanship, and classic essentials.
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Sustainability Initiative: Skall Studio underscores sustainability through local production of knitwear in Denmark. They source materials locally, support animal welfare, and promote transparent supply chains.
Day Birger et Mikkelsen:
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Brand Characteristics: Originally established in 1997, the label was relaunched in 2022 under Christina Exsteen's creative direction, portraying a democratic, bohemian, curated, and sexy vibe.
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Sustainability Initiative: The brand employs a testing strategy to ensure products adhere to REACH standards, contributing to the protection of human health and the environment.
Nikolaj Storm Copenhagen:
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Brand Characteristics: Founded in 2018, the brand exudes a loud and logoed vibe, characterized by bold, colorful, inclusive, daring, and flamboyant elements.
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Sustainability Initiative: The brand focuses on an in-house factory, offering product alterations and upcycling options for customers to promote longevity and reduce waste.
Louise Lyngh Bjerregaard:
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Brand Characteristics: Started in Scandinavia in 2019, the label embodies courage, integrity, communication, disruption, and craftsmanship.
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Sustainability Initiative: The majority of the current collection consists of deadstock or upcycled materials, showcasing a commitment to sustainability from the inception of the design process.
In summary, Copenhagen Fashion Week serves as a global fashion trailblazer with a strong emphasis on sustainability. The featured designers, such as Skall Studio, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, Nikolaj Storm Copenhagen, and Louise Lyngh Bjerregaard, each contribute unique characteristics and sustainable initiatives, reflecting the evolving landscape of Danish fashion.
